The Bicycle
I noticed the bicycle “graffiti” painted
on the wall of the building. It clearly
had been painted a long time ago as there were several new coats of paint that
carefully outlined, but didn’t touch, the two wheeler’s silhouette. The building was a windowless, cement monster
left over from an era of government efficiency that left no room for beauty or
creativity. Edgardo, a bright fifteen
year old native of the city of Resistencia and member of the Christian Church,
Disciples of Christ in Argentina took me on a tour of downtown, pointing out
the same bicycle painted on different walls around the city.
But it was that first bicycle I saw
that I won’t forget. It was painted on
the wall by the first step leading to an unobtrusive side- entrance to that
massive building. Edgardo took me inside
to what had been holding rooms, torture chambers and dungeons during the horrid
years of the Argentine military dictatorship.
The stark walls and bare rooms screamed painfully louder than words or
photographs. I could not stand to look
past the iron bars of a little gate, down the dark stairs to a water-filled
basement, muddy hand-prints still streaking the paint. I escaped back out onto the street gulping in
the cool air, filling my lungs with freedom and willing my soul and stomach to
settle. Edgardo followed me outside.
We stood there beside the painted
silhouette bicycle, and gently he explained.
“You might say this is protest art.
During the dictatorship, two friends met on the street, one riding his
bicycle and the other walking. The
friend on the bicycle did not greet his friend who was walking, but rode past
and a short distance away, got off his bicycle and tied it to a tree. He never turned to look at or acknowledge his
friend. The next day, the friend who had
been walking, hurt by the indifference, found the bicycle still tied to the
same tree. He never saw his friend
again. Then he found out his friend had
been followed by the police the day before and knew he would be arrested. He did not greet his friend so as to not put
him into danger. We know that there were
at least 350 bicycles painted around the city in places where people were
kidnapped, detained or shot. The bicycle
beside this doorway indicates the entrance to this detention and torture center
right on the main square of my city.
Everyone knew what happened here, but the police denied any wrong
doing. After the dictatorship ended, and
this and other buildings were re-conditioned and white-washed for new and less
violent purposes, the painters have carefully avoided erasing the silent
protest of the bicycle. This bicycle,
and the others painted around town, reminds us that we still have many
questions from the dictatorship that we must struggle as individuals and as a
country to understand and answer. This
is the silent appeal of the rider-less bicycle: “Where is my friend?”
Elena Huegel
Resistencia,
Argentina
July 2014